Introduced around 10th
century in Chisht, near Herat in Afghanistan, Chishti order within Sufi mystic
of Islam reached Indian subcontinent in mid 12th century and since
then have been very popular amongst its mass and its shrines are always in buzz
with its visitors. Here is an account of my experience at four popular Chisti
shrines: Shekh Salim Chishti in Fatehpur Sikri, Nizammudin Dargah at New Delhi and shrine of Sabir Pak in Kaliyar, near Roorkee in Uttarakhand
Since the starting of making
one’s way to Dargahs a sense of entry into a different world can be felt.The space
marked by spurting energy, bustling activities, full of life enthusiasm and
lively spirit. The panoramic display of bright colorful stalls selling offerings from vibrant chaadars and beautiful roses to products of daily needs like silver
shining or elegant wooden utensils, sparkling cloths, attractive accessories and
the aroma of special mouth watering delicacies sets a mesmerizing platform even
before one reaches the main gateway and submerges into the captivating beauty
of Sufi shrine. The charisma of these shrines is powerful enough to magnetize people
into the mystical milieu. This gets well explained through the exploding number of
visitors coming every hour of the day to these Dargahs. Joyful sama of Qawallis
seems to have potential to make anyone forget the worries of materialistic
world and plunge into the spiritual one at least once. For a nation which has constantly
struggled for communal harmony, it is a delight to see people irrespective of
their religion bowing before the same figure, following similar practices and
sharing the same space cordially transcending all socio-economic barriers. Although
the three Dargahs belong to Chishti order but their regional flavoring cannot
be missed. While it is a large section of tourists from across the world
thronging the shrine of Shekh Salim Chishti in Fatehpur Sikri, Muslim devotees
dominate in Nizammuddin Dargah whereas presence of considerable number of Sikh
visitors in Kaliyar Sharif Dargah of Sabir Pak1 can also be
witnessed along with Hindus and Muslims. Moreover, sometimes offerings of red
colored chaadar is seen preferred over other colored chadars among Hindu devotees
in Nizammuddin2, words like ‘pir babbe di jai’ can also be something
found written on the chaadars containing other drawings like mosques and Islamic holy
number 786 in Kaliyar Sharif, tying of red thread knots on the marble screened
wall of the shrine is a part of custom at all the four places but devotees
hanging formal letters addressed to Sabir Pir with a red thread on huge Guler
tree2 is a unique phenomenon just like burning incense is common to all three but offerings of oil and burning of auspicious flame at the main entrance
of Sabir Pak’s dargah is contrasting from others yet resembling popular Hindu ritual
of lighting a lamp/jyoti as a symbol of fortune and well being. These shades of
differences add even more charm and subtle variety to the prevalent popular
practices and rituals of the shrines. But the way coin has two sides so could
one’s experience at these shrines.
Despite enjoying amid this
cheerful atmosphere, colorful surroundings and religious fervor soon a bleak
fermenting picture was in front of my eyes which now detached me from other joyous
activities around. Fatehpur Sikri, the city which had received all grandeur when was capital during Akbar’s reign is now in a heart breaking condition with poverty stricken
population and humble infrastructure. Little kids running like headless chicken
from one tourist to the other for selling souvenirs, youngsters disguised as
guides narrating distorted history of the place and many others expecting a tip
for even their simple gesture was a common disturbing sight. However, more
horrifying was the thought about future of these innocent kids without any
formal education, youth without any productive work and majority population
with uncertain earnings. Another sad
experience was at Nizammuddin Dargah which brought to my realization a grim reality
of being feminine in a staunch patriarchal ambience. Not only entry to shrines
was prohibited to women but even their presence was restricted at the market
place. It had become extremely difficult to keep a free mind as always I had to
be utmost conscious of my ‘female identity’ before making any action or striking
a conversation with the people. Were these norms only peculiar to that
neighborhood or could it be broadly understood as a reflection of particular
section of the society? How would a confined bird with tied wings fly to big
heights? Although Financial Crises
encountered in Fatehpur Sikri and Gender Differentiation felt at Nizamuddin had
already shaken me but the moment I started to hear mixed sounds of loud shouts
of ‘Sabir chodo’(Sabir! Leave.), fearful screams of ‘main tujhe nahi chodungi/chodunga’(I
will not spare you) and tearful cries from close vicinity of Sabir Pak’s shrine
in Kaliyar I soon realized that a lot more was still awaited to be experienced.
A chain of conversation with the people revealed it to be a complex fusion of
physical and psychological world. A very large number of devotees had been
either staying for months or were recurrent visitors. They were not only
devotees or visitors but were actually the petitioners (petitions were tied and
hung to Guler tree2) who had filed cases against the spell of evil spirits
(shaitan) on them or their dear ones and waiting for justice under the
administration of their ‘Sarkar’ -the Sabir pir. Until their hearings were
complete and case was over most of them (humans/devotees) were with chained
feet/hand as they (evil spirit/shaitan in human body) were in Sarkar’s custody
and expected to be jailed, hung, enslaved or transformed (only evil spirit/shaitan
and not human body) as per Sarkar Sabir’s jurisdiction. Isn’t this an
interesting contrast with today’s juncture when Indian youth is boiling with
anger and sizzling with demands of rapid trials and justice for victims of
sexual assault from India’s government?
Neither for a country with 37 per
cent population below poverty line, poverty a new phenomenon nor patriarchy is
inevitable in this nation where female ratio has dropped down to 914. Also traces
of spiritualism or pinches of black magic, Tantrism so on and so forth is not
very unique or unheard in India. However, a journey to different shrines gives a
wonderful opportunity to get a closer and a wider view of the convoluted Indian
cultural fabric which until now one would have viewed only from a far distance.
Deeper one thinks more becomes the bewilderment and so does the list of
questionnaires. Although the time spent at Dargahs could be short but its imprints
would remain everlastingly glowing in your memory lanes.
* Photo credit- Niti Deoliya
1. Sabir Pak is Baba Farid’s nephew and also stayed with him in childhood at Pakpattan, (now in Pakistan, earlier in Punjab) before arriving Kaliyar in 13th century.
2. Under the thick Guler Tree which is still there, Sabir Pak meditated for 12 years in standing position.
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Kaliyar Sharif,
Way to Main Gateway: Observe the colorful offerings |
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| Kaliyar Sharif, sea of Humanity at Shrine's Gateway |
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| View of the main shrine-Sabir Pak |
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| Letters of the devotees/petitioners addressing Sarkar Sabir |
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| Joyous Qawalli in the premises of the shrine of Sabir Pak |
